Damscus, May 22 (SANA) Al-Hamidiyah Souq, known locally as the covered market, is more than a commercial space; it is the vital artery of Syria’s capital, stretching some 600 meters between Bab al-Nasr gate to the west, and Bab al-Barid to the east, along the axis of an ancient Roman road that once led to the Temple of Jupiter.
Its remaining marble ruins – an archaeological gateway and towering columns with ornate capitals – stand as silent witnesses to the layers of history embedded in the city’s heart.
Centuries of foundation and renewal
According to researcher Qutayba al-Shihabi in his book Damascus Old Markets, construction of the souq began in 1780 during the reign of Sultan Abdulhamid I, with the western section extending from Bab al-Nasr to Suq al-Asruniyah. Then known as “the New Market,” it replaced the earlier Suq al-Arwam on the same site.
The eastern section, from Suq al-Asruniyah to Bab al-Barid, was completed under Sultan Abdulhamid II between 1883 and 1884. In 1884, the market underwent comprehensive renovation; initially roofed with wood inspired by the western entrance of the Umayyad Mosque, the structure was later fitted with an iron and zinc metal ceiling to reduce fire risk.
1912 fire and a ceiling of “metallic stars”
Ilham Mahfouz, curator of the Arabic Calligraphy Museum at the Directorate of Antiquities and Museums, said a major fire in 1912 caused extensive damage, prompting replacement of the wooden roof with fire-resistant zinc.
The restoration turned necessity into aesthetic distinction; small perforations in the ceiling allow sunlight to filter through, casting golden pearl-like patterns on the basalt-paved floors – a feature that earned the souq its poetic nickname, “a sky of metallic stars.”
Historians agree the covered structure was designed primarily to shield shoppers and merchandise from Damascus extreme summer heat and winter rain, given its status as the oldest and longest commercial thoroughfare in the old city.
A historic setting
Al-Hamidiyah does not stand in isolation. It is surrounded by a dense fabric of historic buildings and monuments that narrate Damascus’ enduring story; religious sites such as ancient mosques; educational institutions including the Adiliyah and Zahiriyyah schools and the Nuri Hospital; and cultural landmarks like the Zahiriyyah Library and Azm Palace.
Together, they form a historical crucible that gives the souq its unique identity and ties it to the city’s intellectual and spiritual memory.
A commercial hub branching like a tree
For nearly 240 years, al-Hamidiyah has housed more than 500 shops offering embroidered textiles, fashion, jewelry, traditional foods, handicrafts, and fine Oriental carpets. The market also features authentic Damascene heritage crafts: mashrabiya (latticework), mosaic and arabesque designs, antique porcelain, copperware, and Damascus steel swords and armor inlaid with precious metals, alongside traditional jewelry and rare antiques.
The souq extends beyond its architectural boundaries like the trunk of a tree, branching into more than twenty specialized markets, each dedicated to a particular craft or trade. These include the spice-and-sweets-scented alleys of Suq al-Bzouriya; the glitter of gold in Suq al-Sagha; the flow of fabrics in Suq al-Hariqa, Suq al-Khayatin, and the Silk Market; and further afield, Suq al-Ara’is, Suq al-Maskiya, Suq al-Asruniyah, Suq al-Manakhliya, Suq al-Qishani, Suq al-Qabaqibiya, and Suq al-Saroujiya – each carrying forward Damascus’s authentic commercial identity.
Living memory at the threshold of the Umayyad
Along the basalt-paved corridors, the buzz of visitors mingles with the scent of ghazal al-banat (a traditional Damascene confection), grilled corn, tamarind, licorice, wild blackberry syrup, and roasted chestnuts – a sensory tableau that captivates the senses.
Shop owners, including those with branches outside the souq, emphasize their commitment to maintaining a presence in al-Hamidiyah, describing it as the beating heart of their businesses and a place deeply rooted in Damascus’s collective memory.
The journey through the market culminates at the expansive courtyard of the Umayyad Mosque, its towering minaret standing sentinel over time. Opposite, the Roman columns of the Temple of Jupiter rise in testament to the continuity of civilizations.
From this pivotal point, pathways open deeper into the old city. Visitors depart Damascus carrying the fragrance of jasmine, images of tireless vitality, enduring craftsmanship, and a market that has never been merely a node of commerce – but an open book recounting the story of a city that has lived, endured, and continued to create.
Iman Alzuheiri/MZ
